And so the spotlight, fatigued as the rest of us, has retreated and is now shining on blue hair. “ People are wanting to look more natural, not excessively beachy, and—thank the hair gods ! —there ‘s an anti-ombre bowel movement, ” says New York City colorist Marie Robinson. In fact, all the colorists interviewed for this report noted that dark hair is indeed more in demand, even among naturally blue-eyed clients. And no wonder : There are so many reasons to embrace the darkness .
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THE FULLNESS!
Natural blondes have more hairs, but true-born black and brunet strands are chummy in diameter, says hairdresser Jordan Blackmore, co-owner of Three Squares Studio in NYC and cofounder of S.Oil hair’s-breadth care .
THAT SHINE!
Another succeed for the dark side : Whether natural or dyed, brown and black hair appear more glistening. “ Lighter strands tend to be more hollow, absorbing light rather of reflecting it, ” explains colorist Bekie Raynard of San Francisco ‘s Barrow Salon .
OOH, SO HEALTHY
Thick, glossy strands go a long way toward making hair look healthy—even when it ‘s not. “ Because the hairs are thicker naturally, dark haircloth is better at camouflaging damage than light up hair ; it weighs down flyaways and schism ends, ” notes adrian Wallace, senior colorist at Rita Hazan Salon in NYC .
INSTANT EDGE
Sharp, blunt styles—think of a dock or lob —just count cool with blue hair, says Blackmore. A impregnable cut complements the hue ‘s bareness ( that ‘s besides why platinum looks great with bold styles ) .
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OWNS BANGS
“ Blonde bangs, a la Brigitte Bardot, look more capricious and feathery, ” explains Blackmore. “ On a brunet, outskirt tends to be full, which makes more of a instruction. ”
Can’t Win ‘Em All
Okay, fine—brown and black hair are n’t perfect, peculiarly if you dye them those hues. But we ‘re here to help you navigate the annoyances .
1. They show grays easily
Silver strands tend to be more obtrusive on dark haircloth “ because of the contrast between embrown or bootleg and flatware, ” says hairdresser Chase Kusero, cofounder of IGK salons and hair’s-breadth care. Between dye jobs, reach for a tint mist, such as Rita Hazan Root Concealer Touch-Up Spray ( $ 25, ), which lasts until your next shampoo ( and even through a SoulCycle course ) .
2. They fade quickly
When you go blond, your hair’s-breadth is stripped of pigment. If you dye your hair dark, however, “ you ‘re depositing pigment into the hair—not removing it—and those molecules can wash out pretty well, ” says colorist Joe Martino, creative film director at Orlo Salon in NYC. For this argue, Wallace advises waiting 48 hours after coloring before you shampoo to allow the dye time to settle in and the carapace to amply close. In addition, lay off day by day practice of dryers and irons, which besides contribute to attenuation, says Robinson .
3. They get brassy
warm undertones often appear on dyed brown university hair as it fades. Using a tinted treatment—blue ( for orange ) or purple ( for yellow ) —helps neutralize those hues, says Stephanie Brown, a colorist at Nunzio Saviano Salon in NYC. She suggests applying Overtone Pastel Blue or Pastel Purple Deep Treatment ( $ 28 each, overtone.co ) for only one minute, once a week ( more than that could alter your hue ) .
A ill-famed brassifier ? Certain straightening treatments. “ They can oxidize semblance molecules, causing an orangey cast, ” explains Robinson. Try a less aggressive—smoothing, not straightening—service rather, like Cezanne Classic Keratin Treatment ( around $ 350 for 3 months, cezannehair.com for salons ), which Wallace says has less of a inclination to cause color shifts .
This article primitively appeared in the January/February 2018 exit of Women ‘s Health. For more big advice, pick up a replicate of the issue on newsstands nowadays !
Fiorella Valdesolo
Fiorella Valdesolo is a Brooklyn-based writer and editor, and the co-founder of Gather Journal .
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